We set sail from Boothbay in a harbor hurricane that faded to dead calm once we reached open water. We stuck it out for about an hour before turning on the engine to wait for a more reliable breeze. Once it filled in, we were rewarded with a beautiful day of sailing.
By the time we dropped anchor in Spruce Head, it was too late to make it to McLoons like we’d hoped. As I relaxed in the cockpit, the caretaker at Whitehead Lighthouse stopped by to invite us out for a tour the following day. Unfortunately we had to be under way earlier than the group staying overnight planned to leave, but hopefully we can take advantage next time.
As the sun began to set, a pair of loons occasionally called to each other, and a flock of seagulls took flight over Windara as the sky turned to fire. As cold as I was, it was hard to tear myself away. Chris had dinner ready below, so I came down to a warm cabin and a hot meal.
I’d been in touch sporadically with our friends Meg and Sandy on Kennebec, and we hoped to cross wakes as they headed south and we continued north. I messaged Meg in the morning and it turned out that they were going spend the night in Pulpit Harbor, so we changed plans to meet them there instead of going straight to Castine.
The sail to Pulpit Harbor was wonderful. The breeze was light, and we didn’t expect to be able to sail for long, but since we had plenty of time, we chose to see how far we could make it. With flat seas, we averaged 5-6kts and we didn’t turn on the engine until we were ready to lower sails outside the harbor. It was one of those perfect late season sails that makes you that much more melancholy that your time on the water is drawing to a close. It reminded me of all the things I love about sailing and I didn’t want it to end.
Unlike last season when we came in to hide from a tropical storm, Pulpit Harbor was nearly empty. There were only one or two other boats anchored aside from our friends on Kennebec. Meg hadn’t seen my last message saying that we were coming, so they were surprised to see us drop anchor nearby.
We agreed to meet up on Windara later that evening and offered to make food if they brought drinks since our beverage selection was looking pretty grim. We had crackers and cheese, homemade pizza, and apple turnovers while we caught up on each others’ seasons. We were even treated to a visit from a pair of bald eagles and a beautiful sunset to finish out the evening – I’m so glad timing worked out the way it did!
Before work on Monday, we hiked the Mill Stream trail, soaking up the smell of the forest and enjoying the warm morning light filtering through the trees. Dew covered the field at the midway point of the trail, making each blade of grass appear as if it were encrusted in diamonds. A light breeze was just beginning to ruffle the water as we returned to Windara.
The schooner Mary Day shared the anchorage with us overnight, and I got some great photos as she passed right off our bow on her departure. Not long after, Kennebec headed out to get hauled out for the season, leaving us alone in the quiet harbor.
After work, we took Williwaw for a row around the harbor to enjoy the quiet. A curious young seal accompanied us, surfacing just behind the dinghy every few minutes to stare at us before disappearing back underwater. Just before sunset, the sun broke free of the clouds, bathing everything in a rich golden hour light that comes far too early these days. Later, we watched the Ravens/Lions game and enjoyed a hot cup of tea, much needed on these chilly nights.
Yesterday morning was forecast to be foggy, and we hoped to avoid a repeat performance of our trip to Castine earlier this season. We hauled anchor at first light in order to make it in before work and before the fog filled in. Fortunately the fog remained light, but we saw thicker patches in our wake as we motored past the islands, up to Eggemoggin Reach and into our final anchorage for the season.
