After our 28 hour passage, it was nice to pull into a slip and get out to stretch our legs. We arrived pretty early in the day, so we headed over to Olivers for brunch (I can’t tell you the last time we actually went to brunch!). It took us some time to get used to the idea of solid, unmoving ground, and we each had moments where the world needed handrails. We walked around town, stopped for an ice cream at Flavas (their banana pudding ice cream was SO good!) and then came back to the boat for a much-needed nap (and still ended up going to bed early).
We took a dock walk and met some people who just recently bought an Island Packet 485. We got to chatting and they gave us a tour of the boat. I admit that while I wouldn’t want one for the kind of sailing we do, they’re beautiful boats and I found myself drooling over all the storage space and the well-thought-out layout. Earlier in the day, we were chatting with the people on the boat next to us, who had just completed a 2 year circumnavigation on their Island Packet. I’m not sure I’m an ocean-crosser, but there’s something alluring about the idea of a circumnavigation. Maybe someday, but I’d have to become a much better offshore sailor first!
On the overnight passage, we picked up another boat behind us on AIS, and it turned out to be Maravilla, a boat we’d seen both in Long Island Sound and in Hope Town. I mentioned to Chris that it would be funny if they were in the same marina, and they ended up being three slips over, so I took the opportunity to introduce myself and Chris. We ended up having drinks aboard their boat, and it turns out that Clark and Amy (and their little dog Millie) are just returning north from their first season of cruising too. It’s always interesting to hear other sailors’ experiences and compare notes, and it was a fun evening.
One of our favorite places from our last visit here was Burney’s Bakery, so first thing Monday morning we wandered over before work to pick up some glazed croissants (Chris had blueberry, strawberry and cream cheese, and I got cherry, maple and cream cheese – the cream cheese is still my favorite). We also needed a few things from the NAPA/marine store down the street, and we were happy to find them open early so we didn’t have to make a separate trip.
All the way up from Florida through Georgia and South Carolina, I kept looking for alligators, but no such luck. I’d kind of given up on seeing one this trip… until one swam through the marina and past our stern. This one was smaller than the one we saw in the Haulover Canal – probably only 6-7′. I was excited to see him so close and get some photos.
So many of these little southern seaside towns remind me of Cape Cod when we were kids, but Southport most especially –even some of the restaurants remind me of home. We had dinner at Provisions, which is basically a southern version of Baxters. Chris had crab cakes and I had yellowfin, and both were really good. We also got to try the Saucy Southerner (I had goat cheese and honey on a biscuit – so tasty!), Dry Street Pub & Pizza (good pizza that doesn’t try to be New York pizza), and I finally made it to the cheese shop. While it’s not a Murray’s or Second Mouse, they have a small but good selection along with some nice jams, meats and crackers. I also stopped in at Potters Seafood – I love getting to talk to the fishermen and find out what they like and how they prepare it. I got a triggerfish filet, which I’d never tried before, and cooked it in the cast iron skillet with salt, pepper and Old Bay. I also picked up some really good pimento cheese… I tried to talk myself out of it, but this is one of the last places I’m likely to find it.
Chris had to travel for a work retreat, and it was strange being on the boat by myself. His trip was part of the reason we decided to stay here – it’s a super safe town and active marina, and everything’s within walking distance. It’s actually the first time in 2+ years of pandemic life that I’ve spent any significant time alone, and it felt odd. Fortunately, Jack’s good company, and I went with Clark and Amy to see a bluegrass band at the local tap house. The band wasn’t great, but it was still fun.
Since we were here for the weekend, we walked over to the ferry to Fort Fisher and spent the afternoon at the aquarium. A couple friends had mentioned it, and it was a fun way to spend the day. It also confirmed that we made the right call not to leave this weekend. The opposing wind and current was fine on the ferry but would have been uncomfortable in Silent Sky. I guess people around here aren’t used to people walking – we had ferry employees on either side ask if we had a ride because it was such a long walk to anywhere. It was only about 6 miles total… we definitely felt it, but it really wasn’t all that bad. I guess when you don’t have a car, you get used to walking everywhere.
It’s nice to be back here when things are busier – when we were here in the fall, there were hardly any other boats in the marina and things around town were quiet. Now, more places are open and more people are around, and it gives the town a different feel.
I’m a little melancholy – I’m both missing the Abacos and missing home. People keep posting from Hope Town in one of the Facebook groups I belong to, and it makes me ache to walk the beach, have coffee at my picnic table overlooking the ocean, and wake up under the candy striped lighthouse. At the same time, racing season back home just kicked off with the first couple Can One races of the year, and I’m missing both the racing and our friends who we race with. But we’ll be home before we know it, and I’ll then find myself missing these amazing adventures.
